CNN Food & Drink, Oct. 15, 2020
(CNN) — Walk
into almost any fine dining kitchen and the chances are its chefs would
say there's only one holy grail of achievement in their profession: to
be awarded a Michelin star.
Since
1926 in France, and more recently around the world, these accolades
have come to represent the pinnacle of cuisine and also helped raise the
profile of French tire giant Michelin.
Although
not every chef seeks to earn them for their restaurant -- some have
famously refused and returned them -- it's undeniable that there's no
more influential mark of success.
But
these are times of seismic upheaval for the global hospitality
industry. Tens of thousands of restaurants are closing, hundreds of
thousands of people have been put out of work. Livelihoods have been
destroyed and dreams shattered.
And
yet, this year, as ever, Michelin is continuing to award or remove
stars and publish its exacting reviews of fine dining establishments.
For
some in the industry, that's a step too far for Michelin that will do
little to enhance the dining guide in an age when many restaurant
workers are becoming more vocal about what they say are the damaging
pressures of trying to live up to such rigorous standards.
As
the pandemic continues, Michelin's determination to carry on publishing
could see the guide face its own reckoning with the coronavirus.
As always, it's a polarizing debate, with passionate views on both sides.
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